I had always wanted to visit Clermont-Ferrand, a city tucked away in the heart of France, surrounded by lush forests and, most strikingly, a range of dormant volcanoes. Nestled in the Auvergne region, this vibrant city is not just known for its historic architecture and delicious food but also for the majestic landscape that encompasses it. For anyone who loves nature, hiking, or just exploring rugged terrains, Clermont-Ferrand offers something extraordinary. My journey here was all about discovering these volcanic wonders, and every moment was filled with awe and adventure.
1. The Start of the Adventure
The moment I arrived in Clermont-Ferrand, I was instantly captivated by the city’s unique energy. The black volcanic stone buildings contrasted starkly against the bright blue sky, and the historic city center, with its cobbled streets, added a charming, almost medieval vibe to the atmosphere. But I didn’t come here to linger in the city—I was here for the natural wonders. I’d read about the Chaîne des Puys, the volcanic mountain range that stretches out from Clermont-Ferrand, and knew it would be the heart of my adventure.
The first thing I did was head straight to the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne, a protected area that offers trails through volcanic craters, hills, and dense forests. The volcanoes here aren’t active anymore, but the landscapes they’ve shaped over thousands of years are nothing short of spectacular.
2. The Chaîne des Puys: A Journey into the Heart of Volcanic History
One of the first hikes I did was up the Puy de Dôme, the highest peak in the Chaîne des Puys. The mountain stands at 1,465 meters, towering above the surrounding plains and offering sweeping views of the volcanic landscape. To get to the top, you can either take a scenic train ride or hike—of course, I opted for the latter.
The trail was more challenging than I anticipated, but the excitement of reaching the summit kept me going. The terrain was a mix of rocky paths and grasslands, and the higher I climbed, the more the landscape opened up before me. At the top, the panoramic view of the other volcanic peaks surrounding me was truly breathtaking. You could see the remnants of ancient craters scattered like a giant’s footprint across the green hills. It was hard to imagine that these mountains were once active volcanoes, spewing molten rock and ash.
At the peak, there’s a small observation tower and a viewpoint that lets you look out over the whole region, including Clermont-Ferrand in the distance. The weather was perfect that day—clear skies and a light breeze—which only made the experience more surreal. Standing there, on top of an ancient volcano, it felt like I was witnessing the raw power of nature, frozen in time.
3. Hiking Through the Volcanic Terrain
After conquering the Puy de Dôme, I set out to explore other volcanic sites in the region. One of the most unforgettable hikes I did was around the Puy de la Vache and Puy de Lassolas, two volcanoes that stand side by side. These are known as “twin volcanoes” and are among the youngest in the Chaîne des Puys. The hike around them was both challenging and awe-inspiring.
What struck me the most was the vastness of the volcanic plains. As I walked along the path, the ground beneath my feet was littered with small volcanic rocks—reminders of the eruptions that shaped this land millennia ago. The slopes of these volcanoes are covered in lush greenery, making the contrast between the raw power of the earth and the serenity of nature even more pronounced.
I paused several times along the way, simply taking in the views. There were fewer people around here than on Puy de Dôme, giving me a sense of peaceful isolation. The quiet was broken only by the wind rustling through the trees and the distant sound of birds. It felt like a place untouched by time.
4. The Volcanoes’ Influence on Local Culture
As I spent more time in Clermont-Ferrand and its surrounding volcanic region, I began to realize how much the land influences the culture and life here. The volcanic soil is fertile, making the area ideal for agriculture. Local farms thrive here, and the food culture reflects the abundance of fresh, local ingredients. I had the opportunity to sample a variety of dishes, from regional cheeses to rich meats, all prepared with ingredients that seemed to have been grown right on the volcanic soil.
The black volcanic stone, which is abundant in the region, also features heavily in the local architecture. Clermont-Ferrand is known for its gothic-style cathedral, Notre-Dame-du-Port, made from this dark stone, giving the city a striking, almost otherworldly appearance.
During my time here, I also visited the Vulcania Theme Park, which was an interesting and interactive way to learn about the volcanic activity that shaped the landscape. It’s an educational experience that lets visitors understand the science behind the eruptions, how volcanoes form, and the forces that shape the earth over millennia. Although it’s a more touristy spot, I found it insightful, especially after hiking through the volcanoes themselves.
5. A Day Trip to Lac Pavin
One of the most serene places I visited was Lac Pavin, a crater lake nestled in a volcanic caldera. This small but stunning lake sits in the Puy de Pavin, another of the region’s many dormant volcanoes. The lake is surrounded by dense forests, and the air there feels cooler, more refreshing, as if the earth is holding its breath.
The water of the lake is a deep emerald green, and it reflects the trees and sky perfectly, creating a peaceful, almost surreal atmosphere. I spent hours walking around the lake, absorbing the stillness of the place. There were a few people walking their dogs and others taking photographs, but it was never crowded. It’s the kind of place where you can easily lose track of time, just enjoying the beauty of the surroundings.
It’s hard to describe how it feels to be at Lac Pavin. It’s one of those places where you feel a connection to nature that goes beyond just sightseeing. Being in a spot that was formed by a volcano’s eruption, where the earth’s forces are still present in the landscape, gives you a real sense of the planet’s dynamic power.
6. The Night Sky Over the Volcanoes
Another unforgettable aspect of my trip to Clermont-Ferrand was the chance to experience the night sky from the top of one of these volcanoes. Being so far from city lights and surrounded by nature, the stargazing here is unparalleled. On clear nights, the stars seemed to stretch endlessly above, and I could make out constellations I rarely see at home.
It’s hard to explain, but standing in the stillness of the volcanic landscape under the vastness of the night sky felt both humbling and inspiring. It was a reminder of just how small we are in the grand scheme of the universe, and how much power nature holds.
7. Volcanic Beauty, Hidden Gems, and the Eternal Land
While I spent a lot of time hiking, there’s also a quiet charm to the surrounding towns and villages, like Orcival and Saint-Nectaire, which sit in the shadows of the volcanoes. Each of these towns has its own distinct character, from ancient Romanesque churches to charming local markets. I stopped in at several to chat with the locals, learn about their connection to the land, and enjoy the slow pace of life here.
One afternoon, I stumbled upon a small local farm where they produced artisanal cheeses. I was invited to try some of their best-known varieties, and the rich, creamy textures of the cheeses were a direct reflection of the volcanic soil that nourished the grass the cows fed on. It’s remarkable how the region’s natural resources create such a deep connection between the land and its people.
I also spent some time wandering through the dense forests that dot the volcanic slopes, which are home to diverse flora and fauna. The forests here have an almost primeval feel to them, with ancient trees and thick undergrowth that make the place feel untouched and mysterious. Every corner seemed to hide some new discovery, from wild mushrooms to small streams that wound through the woods.
8. Leaving Clermont-Ferrand: A Volcanic Journey That Will Stay With Me
When it was time to leave, I found it hard to say goodbye to the volcanoes and the beautiful landscapes of Clermont-Ferrand. The power of the land, the beauty of the mountains, and the serenity of the lakes left a lasting impression on me. It’s not just the dramatic volcanoes that make this place special; it’s the feeling of being in a place that feels both ancient and timeless, where the earth itself tells its own story.
If you’re planning to visit, make sure to take your time, explore the volcanic landscapes, and listen to the stories they have to tell. The Chaîne des Puys isn’t just a place for hiking—it’s a journey into the past, into the heart of the earth, and into a deeper understanding of nature’s power.
